The Handle
Many scholastic and
mass-produced handles are made of unfinished raw wood. These are the least
expensive, become easily soiled and the wood often swells in use. Draw Art Supplies
have taken great care to keep their selection of brushes to the best quality traditional
handles. Artist-type handle are made of seasoned hardwood, lathe shaped and
properly balanced to give you the most comfortable grip. The pores of the wood are sealed
and several coats of lacquer are applied to give the handle a polished high gloss finish.
Taped handles
are made of seasoned hardwood dowels and tapered
both ends, They are either finely sanded plain wood or finished with several coats of
varnish or enamel. Some brushes have moulded, plastic handles instead of wood.
The
Ferrule
This is the tapered metal tube that
holds the brush hair filaments. Ferrules are made of different materials aluminium,
nickel, copper and nickel-plated. Seamless nickel-plated ferrules will usually appear
shinier, with darker tone than aluminium.
Aluminium
ferrules are seamless and polished
Copper ferrules are seamless, polished and varnished to prevent tarnishing.
Nickel ferrules are seamless, polished nickel-plated brass
Nickel-plated ferrules are made of nickel-plated steel and spot-welded (rust
proof).
The Brush
Head
Brush heads can be constructed in many
shapes and various filaments. There is an almost limitless choice available to artists but
in principle hair type is divided into three groups soft hair, hog bristle and
synthetic.
Soft
hair brushes are manufactured using sable, squirrel, ox hair, pony, goat and badger.
Hog brushes are manufactured from various qualities of hog bristle, either bleached
or unbleached.
Synthetic brushes are made of special multi-diameter extruded nylon filament.

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Types Of Brush Hair
Sable Hair The most
valuable hair used in artist brushes is obtained from the tail of the Kolinsky. Red sable
(Kolinsky sable), pale red in colour with darker tips, has special qualities unmatched by
any other hair strength along with slim body, extremely fine points, and greater
resiliency. Not only will it come to a needle-fine point or knife-like edge, but will
retain its full elasticity, making it virtually irreplaceable for best brushes used in any
watercolour medium.Ox hair Often known as sabeline, ox hair provides
reasonably good flow control but lacks durability and snap. It is economic and sometimes
mixed with more expensive brush filaments.
Camel
hair Not taken from the camel, this is a generic term for many types of less
expensive hair that are dyed to a pleasing colour. Camel hair could mean ox hair,
goat or ring cat.
Hog bristle
Bristles are far stiffer and stronger than soft hair filaments. Every bristle has a
split end and oil or acrylic colour sits between the division. Hog hair is plentiful and
generally used in the production of industrial brushes and brooms. It is available in
lengths of up 8 inches long.
Pony hair
is obtained from pony hides. It ranges in colour from light to dark brown, is
straight and soft but does not have the fine points which distinguish squirrel hair does.
Squirrel hair -
This offers excellent flow control with a good point, but not to the degree expected from
the genuine Kolinsky or red sable.
Synthetic hair
In recent years, synthetic hair filaments have become generally excepted as an
excellent alternative to natural hair. The best synthetic brushes are constructed using a
mixture of filament diameters to achieve the flow of colour from the brush to substrate.
The spaces between the shafts of hair hold the colour, which is displaced by the air when
being used. Taklon and Golden Nylon are among the more popular choices of synthetic hair.
Brush Care
For best results, keep a separate set of brushes for water-based paints and
oils. Even if you wish to use the same type of brush for both media. Oil paints and the
solvents used to clean them often act as repellents to water and water based products.
It is essential that
brushes are thoroughly cleaned after each painting session. Following a few simple rules
will pro long the life of any brush.
Wipe off excess paint using a piece
of rag or soft tissue.
Ensure the colour or medium is not
forced into the ferrule.
Rinse the brush in the appropriate
solvent (water or turpentine)
Gently wash in warm and a small
quantity of mild soap (not detergent) until any trace of the original colour remains.
Rinse in clean warm water.
Gently shape the brush head between
your fingers
Natural bristle brushes may be
softened in a rinse of hair conditioner.
Badly stained brushes may be cleaned
with propriety nappy bleach.
Allow to dry naturally at room
temperature without resting the brush on the head.
Note:Excessive hot water will
remove natural oils from the natural filaments.
Never use excessive pressure to
remove colour from the brush head.
Misshapen synthetic filaments can
often be reshaped by soaking in very hot (not boiling) water.
Acrylics & Watercolour - Never allow
paint to dry on the brush. Keep wet between use but never leave sitting in water.
Wash thoroughly and rinse with luke warm water.
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